This capelet in the collection of the National First Ladies Library was worn by Mary Todd Lincoln and was made for her by Elizabeth Keckley, a former slave who served as Mrs. Lincoln's personal modiste and confidante. In 1868 Keckley published her autobiography entitled: Behind the Scenes: Or, Thirty Years a Slave and Four Years in the White House. The capelet came to ICA-Art Conservation, prior to going on display at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History in "The First Ladies." ICA textile Conservator Jane Hammond mended tears ad removed old repairs and patches prior to cleaning the outer fabrics. The disrupted netting pattern was realigned and broken threads were covered to prevent shrinkage or distortion.